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In Verde veritas! New Smith St. Italian serves awesome tuna

Look, there are lots of restaurants on Smith Street — and many of them are great — but none of them served us a plate of seared sashimi-grade tuna over beans and herbs as good as Verde did last week.

Chef Dino Castri is behind the stove at Cono Moreno’s new venture, and though the menu features a wide range of antipasti, salads, pastas and meat dishes (including a salty-briny spaghetti with sea urchin and scallops), the tonno con purea di legume ($27.50) is the standout — just charred enough on the outside to create a contrast to the almost buttery raw tuna inside.

And when it’s consumed in such a delightful setting — a former Laundromat that’s been converted into a sophisticated, warmly lit room with a lively bar scene and a quiet garden — it tastes even better.

Also, don’t miss that flourless chocolate cake with sea salt for dessert.

Verde [216 Smith St. between Baltic and Butler streets in Carroll Gardens, (718) 222-1525].

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