Today’s news:

Sheepshead Bay Turkish joint is a restaurant with balls

You’ve really got to have guts to try the balls at this restaurant!

A plate of lamb testicles is one of the best dishes served at Caucasus Garden, a Turkish eatery that opened about three years ago on Avenue U in Sheepshead Bay. They’re dubbed the more palatable name “lamb fries” ($8.90) on the menu, but make no mistake — these meatballs are nothing like the kind you get at an Italian restaurant. These bite-sized nuggets have a custard-like texture and come swimming in a pool of white wine sauce that balances out their funky flavor.

But lamb fries aren’t the only seemingly nasty bits on Caucasus Garden’s menu. Dining at this Southern Brooklyn spot is an exercise in offal, with a bill of fare featuring boiled beef tongue with horseradish ($5.90) and a stew of lamb liver, heart, kidney and testicles called “chiz-biz” ($14.90).

Even better is the fried calf liver appetizer, which owner Zackay Khanatayev should mass-produce in snack bags. He’d make a bundle — who wouldn’t want to nosh on crunchy, cumin-spiced morsels?

As for offal cuts — Caucasus Garden doesn’t waste those, either, offering the often throw-away scraps straight-up. Case in point, its liver kebab ($4). This rich, skewered protein comes unadorned, getting its only extra flavor from the charcoal grill. But the liver is delicious, and it actually tastes much meatier than we expected. This ain’t chopped liver.

But you don’t have to be a gutsy eater to enjoy Caucasus Garden, as the restaurant has plenty of familiar meat cuts, like chicken kebab ($4) and a terrific soup called kharcho ($4.90). It’s made with braised lamb shank, rice, dill, garlic and a beef-and-tomato-based broth. That’s all, we promise.

Caucasus Garden [2715 Avenue U between 27th and 28th streets in Sheepshead Bay, (718) 769-7003]. Credit cards accepted. Open seven days.

Pin It
Print this story Permalink

Reader Feedback

Enter your comment below

By submitting this comment, you agree to the following terms:

You agree that you, and not or its affiliates, are fully responsible for the content that you post. You agree not to post any abusive, obscene, vulgar, slanderous, hateful, threatening or sexually-oriented material or any material that may violate applicable law; doing so may lead to the removal of your post and to your being permanently banned from posting to the site. You grant to the royalty-free, irrevocable, perpetual and fully sublicensable license to use, reproduce, modify, adapt, publish, translate, create derivative works from, distribute, perform and display such content in whole or in part world-wide and to incorporate it in other works in any form, media or technology now known or later developed.

CNG: Community Newspaper Group